15th February 2019

We were out on deck by 6:45 am to witness our entry into the Bay of Islands and were fortunate to have timed our emergence from the depths of the Columbus perfectly, just in time to catch a breathtaking sunrise over the islands. It promised to be a glorious day, and that’s exactly what it turned out to be.

After breakfast, we caught the third tender of the morning for a lengthy 20-minute transfer to Waitangi Wharf, just outside the town of Paihia. Rather than opting for a cruise-organised excursion, we had planned to follow our own itinerary.

Disembarking from our brightly coloured orange lifeboat-turned-tender, we left the dock and followed the well-signposted route along the shoreline to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Most other passengers boarded the free shuttle buses into Paihia, while a few fitter ones looked set to walk, a journey of about half an hour.

Our route to the Treaty Grounds took us through the grounds of a hotel, which boasted fabulous views over the bay, before we arrived at our destination. On acknowledging that we were from the ship, we were given a discount on the entrance fee and paid $80 for both of us. With 30 minutes to spare before our guided tour began, we spent some time exploring the Māori Museum near the entrance before meeting up with our Māori guide and fellow ticket holders, some of whom were also from the ship.

Our first stop was the Kauri tree, which holds a significant place in Māori folklore. However, this particular specimen was relatively young at just 150 years old and lacked the immense girth and height of the ones Jamie and I had encountered on our road trip to New Zealand a year ago. Even so, it was easy to appreciate why the tree is held in such reverence.

We then moved on to view several Māori war canoes, the largest of which is 79 years old. Designed for 80 rowers, it has, on multiple occasions, carried as many as 158 people, including Prince Charles and Lady Diana. Crafted from Kauri wood, the canoe is constructed in three sections.

Next, we visited the Treaty Grounds themselves and the charming white wooden house where the treaty was hastily prepared. The Waitangi Treaty is the most important document in New Zealand, comparable, I suppose, to our Magna Carta in its significance. It marked the birth of New Zealand as a nation in 1840, and, for once, we British did the right thing, respecting Māori traditions and culture. The document was signed by most, though not all, of the North and South Island chieftains, and the fascinating story of its signing is beautifully told in the museum.

Our tour concluded with a traditional Māori welcome, intimidating, to say the least, followed by a powerful and commanding performance of their traditional dances, which were equally imposing. During one particular dance, I was taken aback when a spear was thrust at my throat, missing by no more than a few centimetres. I was grateful for the performer’s skill, but would certainly prefer it to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

Before leaving, we revisited the museum, this time with a deeper appreciation of the exhibits and artefacts we had previously passed by. Of course, we also stopped at the gift shop and made a few purchases. I would highly recommend a visit to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds to anyone exploring the Bay of Islands, it’s not only a fascinating and entertaining experience but also offers a rare insight into the history, culture, and very soul of New Zealand.

From there, we returned to the wharf and caught the shuttle bus to Paihia, a popular holiday destination for Kiwis. The town boasts numerous small and mid-sized hotels, all tastefully built, with many of the larger homes operating as B&Bs. It’s a bustling little port, with frequent ferries crossing to the small settlement of Russell, an almost unbelievable fact considering it was once the first capital of the country. Paihia is a magnet for cruise ships, even though they must anchor mid-sound and tender their passengers ashore. As a result, the town is well-stocked with tourist shops, restaurants, and bars. From the quay, visitors can embark on dolphin and whale-watching tours, fishing trips, and excursions to the many small islands in the bay, or even take a helicopter flight for a bird’s-eye view of the region.

We opted for a short, twenty-minute ferry ride to Russell. Our first stop was a bar in the heart of the settlement, where we enjoyed some much-needed cold refreshments, as the heat of the day had begun to intensify. From there, we wandered through the town, admiring the neat white wooden houses that looked as though they had been plucked straight from a Victorian postcard. Our route led us towards Long Beach on the far side of the isthmus, taking us along a narrow, shady valley path adorned with an abundance of stunning, blue, trumpet-like creepers, a truly picturesque sight.

Upon reaching the beach, we found several members of Columbus’s crew making the most of their free time, either sunbathing or swimming. It was a beautifully quiet spot, with just a handful of houses dotting the hillside. We waded into the surf to cool our feet, then found a shaded spot to sit and enjoy a session of people-watching.

Back in Russell, we took our time exploring this gorgeous little town, appreciating its charm all the more under the bright sunshine, which made the colours of the sea and land stand out in vivid contrast. I must say, I really do love this place.

We returned to Paihia on a slightly faster ferry and, after a quick stop at the supermarket to pick up some beer for the fridge in our cabin, we browsed the stalls at the local outdoor market before exploring the shops along the main street. Eventually, we caught the shuttle back to Waitangi Wharf, where a tender was already waiting. Within twenty minutes, we were back on board and, rather shockingly, heading straight to the burger bar on Deck 12!

After the evening show and dinner, I stepped out onto the deck to watch the sunset over the bay, just as I had watched it rise that morning. Both moments were truly magical. This place has certainly found a special place in my heart.